Episode 40 – Paul Cluver – Elgin, South Africa, how a wine region is born

In this episode, I was talking to Father and son team of Paul Cluver Senior and Junior about their Elgin vineyards and wines. It is a fascinating account filled with brave and visionary decisions and visions. Planting a vineyard against all professional advice, in times when South African wines were not exported in any volume and when there was no other vineyard planted anywhere in the valley.

We chatted about the early years, planting and trying hard to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot despite the cool climate, aiming to make a Bordeaux blend, and how finally, after advice from Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux, deciding to abandon those and realising the region’s potential of world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

You can also hear them describe their wines, from the village series, to the Estate range to the flagship label of Seven flags, now considered amongst South Africa’s best Pinot and Chardonnay.

Sustainability, climate change, growing tomatoes and figs also featured.

In the wine world, we often use the term Pioneer when we want to describe a person that has done something completely new, either in the vineyard or the winery. New varieties, new methods of viticulture or bucking a certain trend in order to produce something innovative and extraordinary. Names such as Jayer, Selosse, Antinori, Mondavi, Joly and many more coming to mind. But how many can claim to have been the first to plant a vine where there were no vines before and more so, when vines were not allowed to be grown commercially ?

Paul Cluver, a successful Neurosurgeon and owner of De Rust estate, a 3500 hectares farm belonging to his family since 1896 is such a pioneer.

The region is known for its excellent apple crop but back in the mid- 80’s there was no vineyard in sight. It’s only 30 km as the crow flies to Stellenbosch but back in the 80’s Elgin was dominated by apples and the country’s wine and spirits controlling body KWV was dictating where vineyards could be planted.

Elgin was not a wine region. Add to that the political and commercial climate back then, South Africa was isolated with very little wine export and innovation.

Under special permission, Paul Cluver planted his first Riesling vineyard believing the cool region will produce a world class wines. Many experimentations followed, with Bordeaux grapes as well as the later discovered, wrong clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

A momentous visit by Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux some 20 years ago changed all that. In this episode, you’ll hear about Pontellier’s invaluable advice and what makes Elgin, in the eyes of the Cluver, so special. The grapes that are best suited to the region, challenges old and new, a vision to Elgin’s future as well as the South African wine industry as a whole, sustainability and figs, yes, the Cluvers also grow many varieties of figs.

Apologies for the sound quality, I hope you enjoy this episode.

Here are Paul Cluver senior and Paul Cluver Jr.