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During a visit to the Champagne region in December 2019, I was lucky enough to catch Arthur Larmandier from the grower, Champagne of Larmandier Bernier for a chat and a tasting.
Champagne Larmandier is one of the finest estates in the Côte Des Blancs. Pierre Larmandier owns 15 hectares of vines from Chouilly in the north, through Cramant, Avize, Oger and in their home village of Vertus, where the winery and family home are based.
The Larmandiers are proud of their Biodynamic approach (certified since 2004), with real sustainable consideration to all aspects of production.
Larmandier’s wines are portraits of their unique Terroir. Each one crafted to take the drinker on a magical journey into the unique location they come from.
Latitude is a wine coming from the southern side of Vertus, from clay rich soils. The result is a broad, full bodied Champagne.
Longitude, in comparison, is a flight through all 5 villages (from Chouilly to Vertus), giving a portrayal of the mineral, chalky soils of the Côte.
Terre de Vertus is a wine that counters Latitude, as it is from the northern part of Vertus. Here, the soil is chalk that, in parts, has no topsoil at all, giving a wine of bright minerality, energy and super racy acidity.
Les Chemins D’Avize is a study of two Grand Cru vineyards in Avize. One is home to 60, the other 65 year old Chardonnay vines. This wine is a deep, multidimensional and exciting Champagne that need a few years to reveal its depth and potential to develop.
Vieille Vigne Du Levant – fans of Larmandier Bernier will remember this wine in its previous name, Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Produced from vineyards ranging from 55 to 85 year old vines from the Butte de Saran. Showcasing the great energy that chalk can deliver. This Champagne is of great intensity and complexity, one that will reward cellaring to 10-20 years.
Rosé de Saignee Is a 100% Pinot Noir from the clay-rich soils on the southern side of Vertus. It is a rich, vinous rosé, packed with pinot summer fruit and vivid minerality.
During the visit I was lucky to taste an old bottle that Pierre disgorged on the spot (see photo), this 1995 was a real treat, brimming, full of Hazelnuts, apple pie, honey and the rich acidity vein still showing beautifully through the layers of tertiary complexity.
